Evening in the Suburbs

old truck in the driveway in Taos, NM

Funny how the camera takes the bumps out of the driveway

As you can see, it’s not the dead of winter yet. Sunny and dry, above average temps. There’s only a little mud, too, so that’s all right. Naturally it’s also getting darker all the time, but that’s how we like it out here in the terrible high desert when the icy cold begins to blow. Just jump in, snow like hell, and get it over with! At least that’s my formulation. Winter usually has other ideas, like jumping in and then forgetting all about the “over with” part. But so far we’ve been mostly spared.

Speaking of spared, one among us has gained a little space on death. I will now regale you with a confession of automotive guilt in the category of “deferred maintenance,” a crime almost too heinous to relate. My only defense is performance art, although in that regard I’ve failed. To wit, until two days ago, the ’87 Ford F-150 up there hadn’t seen an oil change in six long years…

I kept expecting it to die, I guess, so why bother? That, and the total mileage wasn’t all that bad for in between an oil change—embarrassing at double what you want, but still not murder. I always take care of my vehicles. Always, except this once. For weeks it would sit there unused. I never took it very far in any one direction because of course the thing was going to seize up, drop a driveshaft, burst a hose, or lose a tie rod on a bump and leave me broken in the sagebrush.

We all know what this really means, of course: I wanted it to die, so I could get a new one. Except I wanted us to buy a house before I did that. I was also hot to buy a motorcycle, even though a truck was more important and I didn’t have a place to keep a motorcycle anyway. (You will note how I made sure that none of these got done.) Someone had to pay the price for this frustration and Jesus picked the Ford. Can you say “shadow truck”? I thought you could.

Then this past year, something changed. I started walking four miles every other day, and the truck was perfect for the six-mile run out to the trailhead. Given its overall condition, faded Buddhist thingie hanging from the mirror, machete poking out from underneath the seat, and handmade calavera gearshift knob, the pickup gave me sage cred, I imagined. Not really, though. You see enough guys taking fancy bikes off racks behind their BMWs and realize that you’re just old and stupid to the spandex dude with music blasting in his earbuds. All that shaman voodoo Taos shit for nothing. But it was getting me out there, the old Ford, and something shifted in my stance.

Last Monday morning I drove it to my local quick-stop oil change establishment. It had been so long that no one recognized me. Toward the end, a fine young man emerged from the pit underneath my grateful truck to tell me that the pitch-black differential oil needed changing, too. That made sense. I’d owned the Ford for twenty years and never even looked.

But grateful is the operative word. The Ford pulled onto the Paseo with a perceptible lift. A little more power under my foot. A hint of smoothness. It was as if it wanted to go somewhere and even hit the road, instead of being made to go on errands no one wanted. The vibe inside the cab was totally different from before. The F-150 wasn’t any younger but it didn’t care. The straight six idled much more gently at the stoplights and wound out to 45 mph in second without sounding like a plane crash. There was less noise on the highway. It wanted me to buy new tires then and there but had the sense to not provoke. Pretty damn enlightened for a truck!

Once more I’d discovered the most amazing thing that everyone already knows. God help me, I may even change the antifreeze.

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November on the Rio Grande

Rio Grande near Pilar, NM

It always smooths one out to come here

Just sharing some beauty from the weekend with this view of the Rio Grande at Orilla Verde in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. And actually, that may not be right. Since the Orilla Verde area was included in the new national monument, maybe it doesn’t rate a special designation any more. I’ll have to check the signs more carefully next time. But isn’t this grand? That’s a typical look for November, with the river reflecting the sky like that, and the other colors are amazing, too. We can get to this place in less than 20 minutes from our house, and it’s almost never crowded. How the hell could it be?

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Riding the Wave

family portrait from the 1940s

L to R: George, Bob, Mary, Helen, Johnny, Joyce, Elsie, Grace, & John

Just look at those happy people! That’s a photo my grandmother labeled “the Farr tribe” from late spring many years ago in Chestertown, Maryland. In the main row from the left, that’s Granddad, Uncle Bob, Aunt Mary, my mother Helen, Aunt Elsie holding cousin Joyce, Granny, my father John, with me in the propeller beanie out in front, paying no attention to whoever has the camera. And for the life of me, I can’t imagine who that could have been.

There exists another photo of the very same people taken three and a half years later that would shock you with its emotional rawness. It probably follows a nasty family fight, by which I mean my father or his brother cursing out a spouse in front of everyone. I don’t know where that behavior came from, either, the hurt and anger and the lashing out. Certainly not from my grandparents, who just weren’t that kind of people.

I found these photos in one of the four large boxes of family artifacts I inherited from Aunt Mary, who died this spring at 99 years old (her mother lived to be 100). The picture albums, clippings, cards, and other mementos constitute a huge historical trove that will be incomprehensible to my younger siblings when I’m gone. As it stands right now, I’m the only one of the surviving four who has a clue about our origins and can name the people in the photos. One album features over a hundred scenes from Parsons, West Virginia from 1900 to 1905, and every one is annotated by my grandmother! Another album features images from the Farr enclave in Big Flats, New York. What strikes me about those are that so many of my ancestors were farmers and how similar the homes are to older places on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. Also notable is how contemporary and playful my relatives appear when young. There are many, many pictures.

Consider too that with the death of my mother in April, 2012, I also acquired a similar store of photographs and artifacts from her side of the family in Baltimore. These are much less known to me for many reasons. Visits always favored my father’s relatives, not Helen’s, and we were an Air Force family that landed far away from the old ancestral haunts. But still, I have the records—from all indications, an extended, vigorous, accomplished clan. (Some of my older cousins from that side show up now and then to comment on this blog.)

For the last few years then, I’ve been deluged with physical evidence of the nature of the human beings from whom I came. To most of you, this must sound anticlimatic, as in, “Doesn’t everybody know these things?” It hasn’t been easy to look at all the photos, either. They’ve been known to rile me up real good:

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Jungle Ducks of North Pilar

ducks on the Rio Grande

At Orilla Verde north of Pilar in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument

Another dispatch from the terrible high desert! Behold the poor female mallards, forced to feed and find shelter on the banks of the Rio Grande. The water was running high and clear on Sunday afternoon. So much water going south, where everybody steals it. The ducks kept to the slow water unless they wanted to split without bothering to fly. In that case all they had to do was paddle out into the current and be whisked away.

That same day I received an email message from a reader commenting on this November 5th post. I don’t think he’ll mind my quoting it here:

“The way I put it at the time was, ‘It feels like I’ve come home.'”

I know the feeling.

In 1992, after visiting NM from NY, I bought a ketchup-and-mustard NM license plate key fob with the word “HOME” engraved on it. Four years later, we moved here. It’s been a mixed bag, but my initial feeling was accurate. It’s home.

I’ve stopped by your blog many times over the years, and I’ve always enjoyed your writing, more often than not, empathizing with your take on this unique place. Keep up the good work.

Regular readers know that “home” has been a preoccupation of mine since we landed here fourteen years ago. The worst thing on arriving was discovering how much less we could buy with our money here than back in Maryland at the time. That’s probably still true. At any rate, it was a shock, and yes, I was unprepared and under-educated, made every kind of “wrong” decision, and drove myself mad for years. I should have been a duck, that’s all. But fortunately, that’s all over now.

That reader may know more about me than I do. He paddled out into the current and got whisked six miles from the mailbox up into the woods!

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Beautiful Place to Work

woodcutter on a mountain in northern Taos County

“Another day at the office,” he said. Dang.

Almost eight thousand feet here, somewhere in el Norte, far from anything you’d call a road. Less than thirty miles from where we started, but it took almost an hour and a half. Four and a half million years ago, this was an active volcano. The ground is covered with elk poop, and no wonder: four thousand of them live here. People from the government count them every year from planes, so I didn’t make that up.

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