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Somewhere in the wilderness of northern New Mexico

Keeping watch for bigger things

A couple of years before we moved to New Mexico, we were driving through el Norte on a trip. An outing north of Taos brought us to the Wild Rivers Recreation Area (now part of the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument). I was astounded by the remoteness of the place as well as the indescribable beauty, and most particularly by the fact that no one else was there—coming from the East, I simply couldn’t believe the gift of such a thing.

At the far end of the gorgeous paved road in the midst of all this peace and splendor was an overlook from which one could gaze down into the Rio Grande Gorge eight hundred feet below while looking over the smaller canyon of the Red River toward the mountain range beyond. A thunderstorm had just passed, leaving hail all over the ground. The bright sunshine that followed made steam rise off the asphalt on the road. Miles away, I could see lightning striking the distant peaks. As I stood there in wonder, I felt an enormous joy filling my heart. It was as if everything I’d ever done or worried over was forgiven, and I started to cry. The way I put it at the time was, “It feels like I’ve come home.”

The next block of years were anything but peaceful, though. Accustomed to self-doubt and lost in fear, I lived most of that time inside my head and manufactured crisis after crisis. Only rarely did I feel “at home.” Instead, I blamed myself for everything I figured had gone wrong. Remembering the earlier incident at Wild Rivers, I came to understand that home for me was something spiritual. Yet in all that time, a physical home seemed out of reach, no matter where I might place it in my fantasies.

Yesterday I went out with a friend to cut some firewood. Magical piñon this was, gray storm-felled five hundred-year-old trees cured naturally in the sun and cool dry air. There is no better on this earth. Between the truck you see above and the mountain in the distance is no human habitation. (Let that sink in for a moment, zero as in none.) But there are antelope, elk, mule deer, bears, and mountain lions. Eagles and volcanoes. Sagebrush, cactus, juniper, and cedar. Rocks and caves. Great mystery. It takes an hour and a half to get here from what passes for civilization, driving rutted dirt tracks you’d never use unless your 4WD is already good and beaten up.

The wildness reminds me of what I first experienced at Wild Rivers sixteen years ago. There’s an energy or presence that speaks to something very deep. My friend says he’s “addicted” to pure Nature and the vistas. He cuts wood on the same mountain every year. The elk are so used to him, they stand and watch while he runs his chain saw—sometimes he has to drive through herds of them just to get there.

Consider where appreciation leads. The man and his wife arrived in Taos seven years before we did. They built a simple home outside of town up near the mountains, lived there with no water for six months until they could afford a well, and now have roots and some security. The richness of their lives is undeniable. They have great trust in Source.

My training was in the opposite direction. At least I see that now and finally know which messages to ignore.

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Life on the Frontier: Walmart and the Wood Thing

Taos backyard with slushy snow

Taken through the window. I ain’t stupid.

Yesterday was telling. For some reason I was out of the house with time on my hands, which happens almost never, and there was Walmart right across the road. Since I didn’t have to go to Walmart, I thought it might be fun, so in I went.

First I checked out the cargo pants. I love cheap cargo pants, especially the nice thick soft ones made in countries where the workers are exploited and the factories collapse. But it wasn’t happening yesterday, because the aisle was blocked by a strange-looking woman who’d all but cleaned out the shelves. Her shopping cart was piled so high with pants, I couldn’t get by. It was insane, or she was, or possibly a long shot now, she was buying cheap pants for a work gang camping in the mountains or a band of fundies living in old school buses on the other side of the gorge. Either one would work here, but I didn’t care and headed for the gadget section. Maybe a new USB cable would make my day.

Just then I remembered that my wife had mentioned copying a CD. The nostalgic quaintness of this charmed me, so I decided to see if one could still buy blanks. Could one ever, and now they sold the things bare-naked, not even a paper sleeve. (Those were separate, one hundred to a box.) There were other packages with sleeves or cases, but the quantities were huge. I only needed one and found a little pack of shrink-wrapped discs. That’s when it started to get to me. I stood there for a moment holding the sad little bit of nothing in my hand and felt a wobble in my soul. Suddenly I put it back and walked away.

No matter, there must be something else we need, I thought. Oh yes, a bath mat, that’s the ticket, and one of those little rugs that fits around the toilet. Bath Department, yes, and you can guess how long I lasted there. Our old dirty mats were better made, and they came from the same store not three years ago. Run like thunder, chilluns! (I barely made it out alive but found I’d snagged a bag of Fritos and some cheese dip on the way.)

That afternoon, it began to rain. This went on way longer than a twenty percent chance of precipitation would have one believe, but there it was. And then the temperature dropped. Soon the air was thick with falling snow. Heavy, wet globs they were, not flakes, that landed with a plop-plop-plop… By the time the sun went down, the world was white and slushy and the road was muddy hell. This was of more than passing interest to me, since only the day before, my excellent friend and wood guy had emailed me the remarkable news that if the weather held, i.e. stayed warm and dry, he’d be able to deliver wood this year after all. This would be the magic naturally-cured piñon from high atop his personal mountain, wood that starts with just a match and lasts all night. When you have wood like this, you want it to be twenty below so you can laugh.

This morning we woke up to the scene you see above. The few sticks of firewood I had left were under several inches of frozen slush. I could only imagine what the scene was like a thousand feet higher on that mountain, and the overnight forecast called for a low of nineteen degrees! My first job was pretending not to worry. When my wife and I visted the storage unit around noon, I saw the little Craftsman chain saw I had stored there and brought it home. There were branches from dead plum trees on the property I could cut, if only I could get it started.

To my utter amazement, a little fresh gas and about three pulls was all it took. Moving right along (in case it quit on me), I cut up as much of the plum wood as I could and then discovered a secret stash of ancient cedar fence posts in the mud. An hour later all of this was stacked up near the front door and beside the stove. As I type this after midnight, it’s over seventy degrees in the small room we call the “saloon” where we hang out in the winter. You would too, with the wood stove, sofa, and a bar. Life can be a goddamn struggle in this loony bin, but staying warm is victory unbounded. For the next ten days at least, we’ve got it made.

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The Vulcan Gas Company and Me

Gilbert Shelton poster for the Vulcan Gas Company

Some things just have to be experienced. I was there!

[NOTE: The following is adapted from an 8-13-2009 post at my old blog]

The poster is a Gilbert Shelton (Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers, Wonder Wart Hog, etc.) classic I’m proud to own. I can reach out and touch it now from where I sit. But the story starts with Shiva’s Head Band, my favorite Austin psychedelic rock band from the glory days. When an art student friend of mine asked me to help run a light show for their next gig, I was ecstatic. The time was January, 1967—the place, a rough little boogie joint in East Austin. What a bunch of white hippies playing in a band led by an crazy bearded guy with an electric fiddle were doing in a seedy black roadhouse on the other side of town is something of a mystery, but that’s the way it was back then—only in Texas, and the very essence of Austin before the city went big-time.

I was scared to death just to venture onto the east side, which shows you how naive I was at the time. I don’t remember much about the venue, but I don’t think many people were there except for a few regular patrons. There was a little stage at the far end of the room, and my friend and I set up his equipment near the front, just inside the door.

The really cool thing was that light shows for rock bands was still a very new phenomenon. We’d heard about what was going on in San Francisco using overhead projectors, but no one was hip to that yet in Austin. What we did have were two battered 16mm film projectors, a shopping bag full of assorted film clips from a University of Texas TV station trash can, and an assortment of colored pieces of glass, translucent plastic, and the like. With both projectors running at once, we each grabbed strips of film at random and ran them on through, altering the projected images by manipulating the colored bits in front of the lenses, tilting or shaking the projectors, and anything else we could think of. Sometimes the strips of film would get jammed in the projector and melt, creating an awesome visual backdrop for the music. At other times, the superimposed moving images were either impossibly weird or just hilarious. Every moment was completely improvised, and I was in heaven: it was one of the most exciting and satisfying things I’ve ever done in my life. And that sound! Loud and inaccessible for the audience, I’m sure, but Spencer Perskin’s electric fiddle gave me goosebumps.

“Okay, okay. But what about the Vulcan?”

A few weeks later, my friend and I produced a couple of light shows at the new Vulcan Gas Company on South Congress for Shiva’s Headband and The Conqueroo. I can’t remember for certain, but we may have been there for the grand opening. At any rate, by then he’d learned the overhead projector and colored liquid trick, but I still got to play with the 16mm. The Vulcan Gas Company didn’t last long—Austin was still a scary place for hippies—and I never did another light show, but shortly afterwards Eddie Wilson and friends opened Armadillo World Headquarters, and the rest is history. (We won, by the way.)

Being in on the beginning of the creation of a completely new cultural form like that was electrifying, and in that respect, I honestly can’t recall a better time to be alive: every morning I’d wake up with my heart pounding, anxious to get up, circulate, and find out what new wildness was in the air. The current zeitgeist couldn’t be more different, sad to say. I’d like to find a way to communicate this more directly—so many people have it mostly wrong about those days.

Even More Clouds

Clouds at the base of Picuris Peak near Taos, NM.

Can’t knock mountains just outside the door, no sir

The things you can do with a telephoto lens! I love being able to pull in a scene like this. This is a shot of the hills at the base of Picuris Peak. From our location, that means you’re looking south. Basically, I just walked to the top of the driveway and there it was. Some idiot was going to develop this area a few years back, and a bunch of us stopped it. One of the best things I ever helped do—that, and saving the Valle Vidal from fracking. Wouldn’t it be nice if we didn’t have to keep fighting the same battle over and over?

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More Clouds

Clouds over Miranda Canyon

Clouds over Miranda Canyon hiding Picuris Peak

You come to appreciate clouds, living in New Mexico. First because they’re usually welcome, and second because you can see them in the clean dry air. This is a morning view up by the trash can looking south. Mysterious enough, okay, but if I’d taken my camera with me on my hike this afternoon, I’d have hit you with an image of the bizarro weather that ooched across the Sangres. The sky was mostly blue, but a dirty gray cloud twenty miles long trailed curving strands of virga that glowed white in the sun. You could see the shadows move across the land.

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