Golden Wet Leaves of the Gods

cottonwood leaves in clear water in New Mexico

Most of these are underwater. Can you tell where the surface is?

A little voice told me to take my camera with me on my hike today, but of course I didn’t, so naturally I encountered three tarantulas! The third one was the biggest I’ve ever seen, crawling along the bottom of an arroyo. At any rate, that’s why you’re looking at those underwater leaves in the acequia above. For the rest of this, you’ll just have to drift along and dream.

I got out to the trailhead a little before 11:00 a.m. The sun was shining and the wind was cold. There was no one else in the parking area. I was just about to step off down the trail, when a white Porsche 356 turned in from the highway… I can’t tell you exactly which model it was, either the Speedster or a slightly later early ’60s Cabriolet, but it was sure as hell a white one with no top, utterly immaculate and like a vision. I stood transfixed and focused on the moment. If God were going to show up in a car, this is how he’d come to me.

The Porsche came slowly down the entrance road and obeyed the sign, going around the circle to the right. If I stood right where I was, it would pass within a few feet of me in just a moment. I couldn’t really see it yet, but the deep staccato thrumming of the horizontally-opposed flat four sang to me across the sagebrush island in the middle. I knew that sound.

One of the crazier things my old man ever did—this was maybe ’66—was go to the VW dealer in Houston to “look at cars” and come home driving the service manager’s blue Porsche 356 Coupe. He’d bought the thing, of course, without consulting with my mother, whose purgatorial compensation was the green VW Squareback he had also purchased. (“Hey look, I got you something, too!”) Where the money came from, I have no idea.

What I did have was a high-school girlfriend at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor whom I wanted to visit. I was probably planning on taking Greyhound or driving the ’58 Volkswagen I’d inherited from the family. No one can explain what happened next, but somehow he let me take the Porsche for my trip! It might have been a punishment exacted by my mother, I’ll never know. The important thing is that I drove it round-trip by myself and didn’t get arrested, shooting all the way from Houston to a motel in the middle of a corn field in darkest Illinois the first long day (and night). I have that exhaust note indelibly in my memory, along with how that motor kicks you in the back. And Jesus, there it was again!

The white Porsche circled all the way around and headed in my direction. I hadn’t moved an inch. I could see the driver now, a guy my age or older, short-haired, jowly, and a little grizzled. I made him out to be retired military or a pilot. The Porsche passed me slowly with a pulsing thump. I gave a thumbs-up sign that he acknowledged with a nod, and then he headed back out to the highway. Yes, I thought, so excited I’d forgotten to read the badges on the back to see which engine I was hearing—I knew he’d have to pull out fast and hit the gas, you see, which meant something special was on the way.

The driver paused at the stop sign, took a quick look left, and turned right for Santa Fe. I had a perfect view from thirty yards away. Just as I expected, he wound it out in 1st and 2nd, which almost got him there. The sound that rolled across the desert from the dual exhausts was simply wondrous—there is nothing like a hopped-up air-cooled motor for a certain muffled roar. By the time he shifted into 3rd, he was already out of sight.

I couldn’t believe how good I felt from sheer appreciation. It was like I’d stepped into a river that I didn’t know was there.

»Buy This Photo!«

The Price of Breathing

In the canyon of the Rio Grande

In the canyon of the Rio Grande

A family of coyotes jumped a 22-year-old guy in Boulder County, CO the other night while he was waiting for a bus. He’s okay, but his face and hands are hurting. That’s what they went for, the face, and one wouldn’t let go of his hand.

Coyotes aren’t supposed to bother adult humans. A spokesperson for the state parks and wildlife department said, “When we have adult animals teaching that type of aggressive behavior, that’s a really dangerous thing.” I guess so. There are a hell of a lot of coyotes out there. Some nights it sounds like we’re surrounded by them. If they ever stopped being afraid of us, there’d be a war.

I don’t think it would ever happen in Taos County, though. Boulder County (727 square miles, population 305,000) has a population density of 400 people per square mile. Taos County (2,203 square miles, population 33,000) has a population density of 15 people per square mile. Our coyotes aren’t freaked out. Some of us humans are, but then it’s lonesome out here.

There’s a story in my first book about walking home from a Las Posadas party in San Cristobal, a mountain village north of Taos. It was about 10 °F and perfectly still. I had to hike about two miles up a lonely dirt road packed with snow and ice. About halfway home, a pack of howling coyotes shattered the silence. I couldn’t see them, but they were close and followed me for a while. I don’t remember being scared, but I was certainly, uh, alert… What a quintessential New Mexico experience! First the posadas—oh man, you need to read the book—and then all the way home on the squeaky frozen snow, with stars so bright they hurt your eyes.

There’s another quintessential regional experience. As one of my readers emailed, “So many times your writings on how this place is so fucking brutal when struggling for money, hits me hard. Going crazy here for 10 years myself.” This is true. I always knew it was true, in the abstract, but then I was going to make a zillion dollars “creating content” [kaff, kaff—er, writing] on the Internet.* Who the hell cared?

I see two ways to come at this condition. The first is that there just isn’t anybody here, so to speak. My correspondent lives in Albuquerque, but even there, when you get to edge, it stops! Personally I find this of extraordinary benefit to mind and body. It elevateth the spirit and restoreth the soul. The second is that struggle and brutality are historically normal in these parts. When I realized that this evening, my heart gave a little leap. It’s not my fault, you see, just a feature of the deal. (God, I love New Mexico.)

As a friend of mine just said, “Stay with your heart and this will work itself out.” Even if it doesn’t, baby, look at what I did!

* I still am, too, so don’t get smart….

»Buy This Photo!«

Pilar, New Mexico

Pilar, NM

If you loved peace and quiet, you’d be here

Another shot from our Sunday trip to Pilar. That’s a bit of the Rio Grande in the foreground. Quite the lovely day it was, and warm, too. As I post this at 2:00 a.m. early Wednesday morning in Llano Quemado, however, heavy wet snow is falling straight down outside! Pilar is nearly a thousand feet lower than where we live, so it’s probably raining on the scene you see above.

»Buy This Photo!«

Sunday on the Rio II [Revised]

Rio Grande at Pilar, NM

Rio Grande at Pilar, looking upstream from the wooden bridge

It was warm yesterday when I shot this in the canyon at Pilar, low 70s, in fact. It probably looks the same today, but Nature’s serious and colder air is blowing in. We could even get a touch of snow tonight.

Meanwhile back in Llano Quemado, invisible buzzards circle the the twin Adobes of Doom. The two warring parties in eternal probate invested plenty back in June to fix the illegal septic system shared between two houses, and yet two days ago, our toilet stopped up cold without a warning. You’d think we’d flushed the cat.

Ignoring for the moment that in the aftermath of the septic tank repair adventure, the sloping yard now funnels rainwater and snow melt directly to the tank—who cares, adios—this whole affair has been quite the entertainment and a lesson in “old Taos,” so long as I ignore the years spent dealing with the fallout. When we’re in our next place, though, I write the book!

(A Taos book, I think, although the thing has not been done right yet by anyone afraid of being hanged.)

»Buy This Photo!«

Sunday on the Rio [Revised]

beside the Rio Grande, although you don’t see it here

Green leaves by the river, ducks go feeding in the mud

We were planning a trip to Pilar to see the river and hopefully some ducks. “I got gas today,” she said. “Filled it up. Enough to get to Pilar and keep on going, away from this sad town…”

I know what she means. The desperate, empty side of living in a tourist town comes to the fore when looking for a home. But the consequences of my rootlessness no longer fly. (“This will not do,” she tells me in the bathroom, boring deep into my eyes.) I think it’s time to buy again, in other words. It could be here, it could be there—but we are here, and where is “there”?

Along the river in Pilar, walking across the wooden bridge. The beauty of the water and the hills, the sunlight crashing through the clouds and lighting up the golden cottonwoods, the quiet, even as the wind gusts from the south… “I want to live on Camino del Rio Grande!” she yells out to me, not so gloomy any more. Easier said than done, but I know what this means.

Baby got her mojo back, and I did good. Everything, no matter what, will be all right.

»Buy This Photo!«

Browse ARCHIVES

Browse CATEGORIES

Latest Posts