baby alpaca

Not very old and freshly shorn

Nebraska should be so lucky. Everywhere we’ve been around Dubuque, the world is green and lush. It’s like a joke, almost. A cosmic face-slap.

Today we sat out in the “garden room” and had our drinks while rain fell constantly but hardly made a sound as the great green sea of grass absorbed it like a living sponge. (Back in the woods, one might have heard the plop-plop-plop of big drops falling from the leaves.) I watched it with a wonder never felt in 25 years of living back in Maryland. The terrible high desert of New Mexico that stole my heart has shifted my perspective and I see the life the water brings. It wouldn’t rain like that in Taos without cracking thunder or great wind and later mud of course. It is a crazy, wretched thing.

On the way to visit the alpaca farm we passed by more green fury. All the grass was screaming bright and reaching for the sky. Mowers mowed and farmers sowed. The undulating plains groaned heavy with desire, not so much for corn (I thought) as prairie grasses, wildflowers, and the like. Too bad. And yet the gleaming white farmhouses and red barns were perfect in their way, invasive though they were. I wanted to live in each of them and watch exploding gardens as they grew.

But I have a fatal sickness. A need to grapple with the unimaginable Darkness makes me steal the best of what there is that’s easy and move on. Not long would I look out from my window at the happy cows or someone else’s barn a quarter mile away before I’d feel I’d fallen in between the velvet jaws of normal and go mad. There is no cure for this nor should there be—it’s just the way I am. The decades spent in futile purpose trying to adapt aren’t wasted, though, because they brought me to this point of recognition. It is a huge and monstrous gift.

Next time around I want to be a tree instead of a mistake. Plant me in a corner of the yard and hang a tire from my arm. Cut me down and burn me when the lightning splits my trunk. But that is then (perhaps), and this is now.

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mystery grimaces in downtown Dubuque

Iowa, Iowa

The downtown art show in Dubuque did give me a somewhat unwelcome sense of deja vu—memories of when I used to sit for hours in a booth trying to look cheerful while no one bought anything—and it was hot and humid, but I don’t think either of those are what my wife and sister-in-law are reacting to in this photo. It’s a hoot, regardless.

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Tito Larriva and the Cruzados, chilluns. Just played this twice through good headphones at maximum volume and got honest-to-God goosebumps both times. One huge tip o’ the hat to Santino J. Rivera (check out his Tumbler, too) for sending me to this YouTube page where I got the skinny on the Plugz (which I’d at least heard of, once upon a time) and a link to the above video. From said page, for those of you in a hurry:

The Plugz were the great Mexican-American punk band from early 80′s Los Angeles, led by Tito Larriva. They backed Bob Dylan at one point, and achieved cult fame on the “REPO MAN” soundtrack with their spanish cover, “Hombre Secreto” (“Secret Agent Man”). Less known is this closing track to the film which is a loving tribute to Morricone’s western scores.

Tito went on to front The Cruzados and act in the Talking Heads’ film “True Stories”. He’s appeared with his band Tito+Tarantula in Robert Rodriguez’s movies, including appropriately enough “ONCE UPON A TIME IN MEXICO”.

I utterly love this. Play it LOUD.

UPDATE: That’s not nearly enough. Here’s Tito and Tarantuala in HD from 2008! Woo-hoo!

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New Order

American Gothic

Possibly the best cropping I have ever done (Dubuque, Iowa)

A funny thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago. When I finished my grueling 10-day exile in Maine, having decided what to keep out of all my dead aunt’s possessions I had suddenly inherited, I ended up with four large boxes and one suitcase full of photos, family letters, Finnish fish knives, my father’s “baby dress” (so help me), a 150-year-old hatchet, crocheted potholders, and three boxes of .22 long rifle ammo, along with other family detritus.

What was legal to mail I took into Augusta to ship back to Taos. It was something of a milestone, because I realized I was finally done with sifting through old lady crap in search of love and treasure. (Last year there had been my mother’s TWO mobile homes in godforsaken Arizona.) As I drove the rental car much too fast along the twisting turns of Cross Hill Road anxious to be shed of all of this, I pondered how the lot of them were gone: my mother, my father, his siblings (their mothers and fathers, etc. etc.)… and a singular Appalachian-style ditty fell into my head, lifting my spirits in a wild new way:

Ohhhh
the Farrs are dead
the Farrs are dead
stuff’s all gone
and the will’s been read
cheap as hell
I hope they’re well
devil’s gonna wish they were saved instead

The ripples are still spreading out in all directions. I look and see and nothing hurts. What was always there is still alive and throbbing. More than half a century is safe to eat!

And I am very hungry.

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view from Balltown, Iowa scenic overlook

The last time I stood here, here were pelicans gliding in the breeze

I could almost live in Balltown. Well, for a couple of weeks, anyway. This is the view from the scenic overlook just past Breitbach’s restaurant, and the photo doesn’t do justice to the sense of being up in the air you get along this ridge a short way from the Mississippi. (That’s the river in the background.) The stretch between here and Sherrill is gorgeous now with flowering trees and such. It’s probably the closest one comes to mountains here in Iowa and feels more like a genteel West Virginia where everyone has jobs and razors.

Breitbach’s is a hoot and a half. There’s a beer garden out back, but inside you’ll find the finest examples of deep-fried pork tenderloin sandwiches in the world. Fried anything, actually. They used to have fried ice cream, but I didn’t see that on the menu this time, possibly because the place burned down twice since I was last there. I can imagine the insurance adjuster saying, “Okay, one more time, but dammit, cut back on the grease traps!” and something had to go. Personally, I may never recover. (We even had onion rings as an appetizer, so you see where this thing went.) They had a buffet tonight, all you can eat for $16.95. I saw one fellow eat three servings of fried something, and I swear his wife had a couple pounds of potato salad piled up on her plate. Dear God in heaven.

It’s so damned verdant in Iowa right now, it’s like being on another planet after Taos. Something gave me an awful headache this afternoon, and I figured that was it, so I told my wife I was allergic to grass. (Hell, just look at it!) She wasn’t buying that, though, and in any case I have to play it cool because in over 30 years of coming to Iowa, I have often been a bad, bad boy: the omnipresent propriety that hugs the very earth like a stifling fog used to give me the willies—to put a cute face on Mr. Ugly—but I’m all better now and love it for the edge it sets up in me once I’m gone.

The fine young men and women stand up tall and straight. Lawns look like bright green felt. The concrete driveways have no grease spots. All the cars are shiny. Judging from the roadsides, the last person to toss a bag of fast food garbage out the window ended up as hog feed years ago. (That would surely be the dark side of this arrangement—although I jest, what did they do with all the beatniks, hmm?) I do appreciate this, absolutely. It’s everything my scared-ass parents wanted us to be but could never conjure up because of how they hurt inside their souls. So I salute you, Iowa, and the deep fat fryers on the ridge in Balltown:

While I’m busting bear balls down in Taos trying to stay alive, I’ll remember what it’s like up here where things make mostly sense, and when I fall into the gorge, I’ll thank my lucky stars I have a grave to fit my rotten, twisted corpse that held a heart deserving of the love that pours out from my sweetie like an everlasting spring.

(She’s from Iowa, you know, and that ain’t bad at all.)

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