When our 2007 Pontiac Vibe was new, it had a tinted windshield—one without the shaded band across the top, what I call “clear”—but that was quickly cracked by stones thrown off the tires of cattle trucks in eastern Colorado. When I went to Santa Fe to have it replaced, the shop installed a shaded one [...]
“Look, over there!” she said. I stared across the Rio Pueblo gorge until I spotted them, half a dozen somethings that weren’t rocks or trees, and then it clicked. “Bighorn sheep! See their white butts?” And so they were. It was like watching giraffes from a helicopter flying low across the veldt. What is this [...]
Ssuddenly the sun came out—this is New Mexico—and the last few raindrops glistened and were gone. Massive rain shafts still swept the ground on three sides. One was just behind, the others distant. All bore watching but there wasn’t any lightning yet. To the west, the sky was open, and the warmth streamed down. We’d [...]
Maybe I can do this after all. It only took me eighteen years of living in Taos, most of them spent less than ten miles from this spot, but I did find it. It’s a stupefying place. The scale and closeness of the cliffs are shocking. The open space between them is too much to [...]
Behold the Rio Pueblo. Just beyond and around the bend the river joins the Rio Grande in an even bigger gorge (of course). I hiked out here Wednesday evening for the first time ever, which in itself is loony. Within fifty yards of starting this trail, you plunge immediately into one of the most spectacular [...]
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